The Noma (North Marais ) to Pompidou walk covers a large part of the South and North Marais as well as the connecting streets to the Beaubourg Pompidou Centre area. This is a good half-day walk including museums, galleries, boutique shopping and a selection of cafes. It starts in the historic Jewish Quarter passes through a lively gay neighborhood with a quick walk around one of Paris’ oldest outdoor markets and the Picasso museum. I consider this a good Sunday walk.
After many years in Paris, I chose this neighborhood to live in. No, not because I’m gay, but because it has the largest concentration of Maison Particulier in the city. If Paris has a historic centre this is it with its preserved buildings and tight cobble stone streets. Sure others claim different areas as the historic centre but for me this is it. There is no other neighborhood in Paris that transports you back in time like the Marais. If you have time to walk it at night, when the streets are silent, you’ll see what I mean.
Let’s walk it by day to give you a feel for your evening walk. Pay your bill at the Café Rosier (1), make your way through the mix and match wooden tables and antique chairs and take a left up Rue des Rosiers when you exit. The city of Paris and the world’s first gay mayor have recently declared this district a pedestrian area. They recobbled the streets and planted hundreds of trees. The renovation to the hub of the traditional Jewish quarter now looks much nicer but it came with a cost. Rue des Rosiers was once filled with Falafel shops and pastrami delis that are now being replaced by boutiques and restaurants.
Take a deep breath this Lenny Kravitz territory. Consider having a falafel at Chez Marianne (2) or a piece of cheesecake at the yellow bakery Farfunkels, I think that’s the name. If you don’t, take a right just after Marianne avoiding the call of Rue Vieille de Temple for the time being, trust me we’ll be back. Walk north towards Rue Franc Bourgeois, the shopping thoroughfare of the Marais. Do take the time to peak into a few specialty boutiques keeping in mind the space left in your luggage.
At Rue Elzevir take a left towards the Picasso Museum. Don’t miss the porcelain blue and white Violin store sign on the right. The specialty violin store closed a few years ago but the sign bears witness to the once glorious musical past of the corner and the store. Further down consider having a drink at Joko Café. The Joko (3) is the Parisian Headquarters of the African contemporary art movement with regular performances and interesting exhibits of African art.
At the corner of Rue Elzevir and Rue du Parc Royal is a small art gallery (4). I have never seen anything other than large colorful faces in those windows in all my years in Paris. I often wonder if the painter never tires of painting large faces. Just had to share that with you, don’t worry the Picasso museum isn’t far now. Continue walking north onto Rue de Thorigny. The main entrance to the museum is just up the road.
This Picasso Museum (5), there is one in Barcelona, has a huge collection of the master’s later works. What really makes it worth the visit is the combination of modern art in such a dramatic setting of the Maison Particulier. The contrast of colorful almost surreal paintings in laced and high ceiling rooms is stunning. Spend as much time as you like pondering the genius of Picasso’s work but do spare a few minutes to think things over in the garden café.
Once you’ve recuperated from the museum visit keep pace up the Rue Thorigny towards Rue Debelleyme. This road is famous for several reasons. It is the only road in Paris that touches Rue de Turenne at two separate points, check the map if you don’t believe me. It is also the address of the Thadeus Ropac gallery (6) a host of interesting world-class contemporary exhibits. Finally it is the street where I lived some of my best years in Paris. The plate marking my place of residence isn’t there yet but I like to think it isn’t too many years off.
Keep walking the curve of Rue Debelleyme to Paris’ version of the Flat iron building and to some select boutique shopping. Yes, there is an American Apparel shop but there is also some unique shopping as well. Not shopping for your self? Some high-end children’s shopping is just up the street past the G-module gallery. It is expensive clothes but aren’t your children priceless?
Rue de Bretagne is currently undergoing a bit of a rebirth. Here you are at the core of Noma. The butcher, the baker, the fishmonger and the candlestick maker are what make this street so charming. But the crown jewel is really up near Rue Charlot. Grab a macaron or a few at the bakery before you start your zig zag walk through the Marche des Enfants Rouge (7).
This outdoor market is Paris’ oldest market. It lied dormant for an incredible number of years until the city council decided to give cut rates to local produce and vegetable distributors. The surprising turn out and popularity of the market has affected other city council’s to rethink their hyper supermarket strategies in favor of smaller independent producers. If you are hungry and the weather is nice consider trying the Italian or Japanese traiteurs in the market. Both are recommended.
To help you digest take a leisurely stroll back down Rue Charlot to Rue Pastorelle. Don’t miss the small boutique on the left, L’habilleur (8), this place carries some of the latest runway fashions at very reasonable prices. It is a hit or miss shop but worth a shopping freak stop. Up further is Le Petiti Moulin Hotel. This new hotel kept the old façade of the bakery that was once there while renovating the building inside into a nice cozy hotel. A Ptv recommended hotel.
Take a left at the Petit Moulin and catch your breath on Rue Saintonge. This may be the last time you have one of Paris’ streets to yourself. Keep your eye on the ground! Don’t worry though, Parisians say its good luck if you step in dog poop. At Rue du Perche take a left toward Rue Vielle du Temple, the veritable heart of the Marais. The crepes at Café Breizh (9) are definitely worth a stop if you’re hungry, if not continue south on Vieille du Temple. Yes, the garden is the backside of the Picasso Museum. I know it feels like I’m walking you in circles. I am but there is a method to this madness. A little further down is the most happening café in all of Paris. It’s called La Perle. John Galliano and other fashionable celebrities are regulars. To me it just looks like a rundown café, go figure.
Past La Perle the crowds become denser as does the gay population. You might try to peek into 64, rue Vieille du Temple to catch a glimpse of the world’s fattest cat if the door is open. Cross Francs Bourgeois and enter the real centre of South Marais. It’s here where students, gays, artists and drunks mix on a nightly basis to create the buzz of Parisian nightlife. Its not club land but it is lots of wine, cigarettes, debating and public displays of affection.
The café possibilities come fast and quick here. Stop and grab a macaron at Cacao something or other shop to contemplate your choices. The Petit Fer au Cheval is a favorite for its hidden dinning room behind the very small bar. Café Philosophe is also a neat stop for, well, I’ll let you guess. Up the tree lined alley is Café Tresor a rococo styled café and down at the bottom of the street is Pic Clops. (I’m actually writing this article seated inside the colorful 1950s retro bar.) Gotta dig it.
Have a coffee or not. Once re-energized finish your tour of South Marais with a stroll on Rue de Roi de Sicile and its arteries. This is the center of Paris’ gay world. Don’t worry there isn’t much left to this walk. Take a left on Rue xxx and follow it all the way to Rue Beaubourg. Feel free to point and ogle at the seemingly endless parade of outlandish behaviour. It’s ok if you are now asking yourself if this is why they call it ‘gay Paris’.
The prize for being such a warrior on this walk is a nice coffee at the ultra post modern Café Beaubourg, friends say this café is a Parisian art school case study of post modernism. Or better yet go to the top of the Pompidou Centre to have a coffee at George Café. The views from the café are only of a slightly higher quality than the self-esteem of the wait staff. They are not as cool as they pretend to be, remember its about attitude here, snap your fingers if you must. You cannot have a coffee with this view anywhere else in the world, dig deep and muster the attitude baby.
Congratulations! You’ve survived another of my specialty walks. Hope you enjoyed your little peak into a typical Sunday afternoon of a nomadic Parisian.