If you only have one day in Paris this is the walk you must do. It’s the walk that changed my life several times over. This is the walk that has inspired my greatest moments and has offered comfort during my seemingly interminable miseries. It is a walk that can last an hour like it can take a day. It is about views, history, paintings and Notre Dame. It is a walk that covers the bridges and islands of the City of Light.
It starts at the famous Pont des Arts. This wooden pedestrian bridge is a favorite of lovers, stoners, painters and tourists alike. It shouldn’t take you a couple of minutes crossing the bridge before you too are enthralled with the beauty of the views it offers. My favorites are looking across the bridge at the Academie Francais and down the river towards the islands. There really is no time of day or night that can ruin these views. They are majestic, inspiring and unique in the world.
Once you’ve taken your photographs and pondered the beauty of the city go ahead and cross the bridge towards the home of France’s protector of all things French. If you’ve every wondered why the French are so stubborn about their language and culture you can thank the Academie. It is there where they decide which words will go into the official French language dictionary.
I understand a walk up Quai Conti is tempting with the antique booksellers and the crowds of pedestrians but choose to walk the cobblestone river walk instead. It is on this river walk, while I was under the influence of legal and illegal substances, it occurred to me that the islands of Paris were preserved and protected by the hands of God. You’ll actually be able to see the hands a little further up the walk.
Be careful as you approach the recently cleaned and renovated Pont Neuf. Paris’ oldest bridge is covered with fascinating carvings and ornate decorations. If you are lucky you might cross a few plein air painters lingering around the boats, holding their brushes to the sky, testing and sizing up their next stroke.
The mighty Notre Dame de Paris will slowly come into view once you pass Pont Neuf. It is around this point, on a sunny afternoon that I looked up and saw the nurturing, caring hands of a higher power protecting the city centre. If the sun is at the right height in the sky, casting a perfect light on the buildings you cannot miss the golden, cradling hands of the caretaker of Paris. I swear to you I saw them and I insist they remain for those who care to see. You don’t believe me? Otherwise how do you think something so precious as the islands of Paris could have lasted so long intact?
Hold your nose as you pass underneath the bridge and think of the centuries of urinating drunks who have stepped exactly where you are now stepping. It’s nice to share such moments with illustrious people isn’t it? Check the sides of the river for the giant mooring rings during your walk to the next bridge. You might consider jumping down to swing from one of them but really think twice. The Seine is cold and dirty.
As you progress under the second bridge a familiar perfume of Paris may jolt your memory but just as you are about to gag look up, stop, it’s this view that you’ve come for. If you’re lucky you are now standing at the exact angle where the towers of Notre Dame fit just under the curve of the bridge. This is it I promise there is no better framed image of Notre Dame available to the public. Take a picture now because it isn’t a picture or view everyone has on living room walls.
Since this walk is about views we’re going to go up the next set of stairs to Quai Montebello. The views of the incredible lady of Paris from across the river are some of the most photographed in Paris. Walk slowly, making sure to peek between the green stalls to catch mouth-watering shots of the gothic building. We haven’t been walking long but I insist on sipping a glass of wine at Café Montebello.
Before going to Montebello do a take a minute to visit Shakespeare and Company, the old used, English language bookstore of the perpetually lost generation. I, like thousands of other wannabe anglo writers, have spent countless hours perusing the shelves for cheap books. If you buy a book they’ll even stamp the inside to mark your passage.
When you make it to Montebello grab the seat further to your right. Order a small glass of house red, take a deep breath and enjoy the view. If you are now staring at a wooden panel, turn your chair around, that my friend is the wall and consider making that your last glass of wine. If you really fall in love, order another glass of wine and a plate of cheese. Who knows it may be snack time.
Pay your bill and cross the street to regain your leisurely pace up the river. The next corner is a definite must. First don’t miss the clock in the middle of the road. It’s beautiful true but what exactly is it doing there? I’ve ridden by the clock a thousand times on my way to work and have always wondered why Parisians past put a clock there. Secondly look back Notre Dame. From here you begin to see the complexity of magnificent medieval architecture. If the ivy is green and flowing into the river then consider your self extra lucky.
Cross the bridge toward Ile de la Cite taking time to glance up and down the river several times. Isn’t Paris incredible? The park to the left is nice for reading and contemplating life with or without higher powers while the park on the right is the memorial to the thousands of Jews that were deported from the city during the Second World War.
Now you should be standing on the little pedestrian bridge that connects Ile de la Cite with Ile St Louis. I hope for you that music is playing. The street musicians that have monopolized this bridge are worth walking slowly for be it the accordian player, the flute glass musician or the American Jazz band. If on the other hand the French clown is there, quicken your pace he may ridicule you for no apparent reason or worse subject you to a very uninteresting clown act. I’m going to ruin it now, he rides a really tiny bike at the end. Whoopi!
Berthillon Ice Cream is at the end of the bridge. Yes, it is packed with tourists. Yes, it really closes during August and no you cannot skip it. Although Berthillon ice cream is served all over Paris having a scoop or two at the original ice cream parlor is almost a right of passage. If you are one to complain about prices this is the moment to splurge.
Wipe the sorbet off your chin and continue your walk up Quai d’Orleans. The views of Notre Dame are killer. When you reach the point where a ramp leads down to the river’s edge say a little prayer to the French police. It’s here where I almost had two-dozen paintings confiscated for illegal vending practices. I am not one to fight but when that cop grabbed one of my paintings I jumped up, stiffened my back and gave him one of the scariest stares I think I’ve ever mustered. After that they gave me a short warning and let me walk with my paintings under arm. Phew.
Keep walking up toward Pont de Sully and follow the road around to Quai d’Anjou. Take the stone staircase down to the side of the river and enjoy the solitude and silence of the river walk to the end point of Pont Marie. There is a nice café with green awnings and a great view of a medieval street just past Pont Marie. But take time to enjoy this slice of magic. It is amazing, on this little piece of cobble-stoned walk, how suddenly quiet Paris can be and how quickly it becomes only yours. Be greedy it is the city for jealous lovers.