Parts of this walk made me giggle when I first discovered these hidden gems. Other parts are about experiencing new emotions and pleasures. It’s a walk that is composed of several neighborhoods, the oldest and the shadiest streets of Paris. In some places you may cringe, in other places you may laugh while other stops will have you in awe of the hidden secrets of Paris. This walk can take some time it isn’t really a priority walk but it does give the visitor an insight to the real, cruel and more intriquing parts of the city.
It all starts off with a few minutes to admire the talent of the street performers in front of the Pompidou Centre. The prime spot is shared among several performers on any given day. Its not clear how they determine the running order but there is a definite appearance order and a hierarchy. On the fringes of the main stage there are other performers that obviously do not possess the talent of the headliners. For a moment of contemplating sheer boredom check out the Mongolian lady that has been playing the same refrain for the ten years I’ve been in Paris. She never gets bored?
As you walk away from the museum take one last look at the structure that riveted Parisians a few decades ago. The inside out architecture of the building was the first of its kind and tore the city into two camps, those that loved the new building and those that couldn’t care less, just kidding.
Walk up toward the Starbucks and take a right on the oldest street in Paris. Rue Quincampoux is one of the original arteries of the medieval city. Today it has been shortened to just a few blocks but some of the history still hangs heavily in the air. It also hosts one of Paris’ lesser known experience restaurants. Le Nocturne, gives clients an authentic feel of what it is like to be blind during the span of a fine three course meal. The waiters are completely blind and serve the meal in total darkness to paying visitors. If you are looking for an experience you’ll never forget try Le Nocturne.
Just past the restaurant take a left toward Boulevard de Sebastopol. If it’s that time of day think about having a bistrot lunch at the Petit Marcel. This old brasserie has kept all of its original décor with its painted ceilings and all. The prices are reasonable and the blond waiter is friendly if not a little clueless.
Cross Sebastopol to enter Les Halles. Dozens of feet below Paris is the world’s most comprehensive network of public transportation. Paris’ metro is famed for its stops and proximity to any point in the city. A metro stop is always within then minutes walk say the Parisians. Les Halles is the center point of this massive underground transit system. Hundreds of thousands of people pour through this area on a daily basis reflecting the diversity of the city and its people.
Les Halles is a massive, labyrinth of a structure. We’re going to skip it and take a right on Rue Pierre Lescot. Keep an eye for the restaurant with a giant gold-laced snail. Guess what is their specialty plate. A hint, it’s not chicken. If you’re tempted you will be eating in one of the city’s most famous escargot eateries. Slurp.
Now walk at angle toward your right and Rue Saint Denis. If you are feeling lonely, this is mostly for men but you never know in our modern times, for a negotiable price you can surely find company for the evening on Rue Saint Denis. We want spend much time on the street but it is worth noting that the services of the world’s oldest profession have been available here since the inception of Paris. It seems that people have always been willing to pay to avoid being alone.
Past Rue Tiquetonne, I love that name, is a covered shopping arcade that will lead you to what was formerly known as Rue Tire Boudin. The 18th century arcade has recently been reopened and renovated to provide studio and gallery space to young local designers. Stroll the alley while perusing the whacky and interesting creations of these young creators.
The arcade opens onto Rue Marie Stuart. The little plaque on the corner explains why and when the name of the street changed from Tire Boudin to its current name. In brief tire boudin literally translates to sausage pull. This is the street where all the dirty little boys of times past came to have their sausages pulled! When I first read the sign I giggled. After much ridicule and a wave sobriety spread throughout the city the name was changed to Marie Stuart, reflecting the chosen name of the most frequent customers’ favorite puller. Talk about fidelity, she got a street named after her. Giggle.
Are you finished? Now follow me to Rue Greneta and then to Rue Montorgueil. This neighborhood stands out for its tiled streets. While the rest of Paris was busy cobbling stones to cover their roads and alleys the inhabitants of this quarter were maniacally chipping away to create these little flat white ceramic like stones. You’ll know you’ve left the Montorgueil neighborhood when you no longer feel the tiles at your feet.
Follow the white road all the way up Rue Montorgueil to Steihl’s, the oldest patisserie in Paris where the macarons are sumptuous as are the chocolate and coffee éclairs. You’ll note from the pictures on the wall that I share the same taste for fine food as the Queen of England. I told you I would show you the finer side of the city wonderful.
With the memory of divine chocolate on your mind and a slight sugar high finish the walk of Rue Montorgueil to Rue Tiquetonne. I know you must feel like having a tea or coffee now so I’ve decided to offer you a choice. Le Café has a great interior filled with airplanes and globes while the Café Etienne Marcel just beside it is decorated in a funky contemporary style. Avoid the terrace for the inside to really enjoy the place. If you can’t choose between the two why not have a tea or coffee at each place?
The rest of Rue Etienne Marcel is street wear heaven. If updating your wardrobe is a priority you might find a couple of neat pieces to add to your collection along here. If shopping is not your thing then walk towards the statue of a man on a horse. That’s Place des Victoires. I imagine this is where all the scrabble champions of France come to celebrate their victories.
Veer right off the grand plaza toward Rue Notre Dame des Champs. The little store fronts on these hidden streets are cool. Follow the streets to Galerie Vivienne, another shopping arcade. Apparently the city used to be filled with similar arcades that have slowly been destroyed over time. Galerie Vivienne is one of the largest fore runners to the modern mall that remains intact. Leave the arcade aim for a small street across Rue Etienne Marcel, slip through the columns and now you are in Park Royale. This park is where my sister had her wedding reception. It is also a majestically preserved Royale park in the center of the city.
Look around you. Enjoy the silence, the breeze and the scenery of this precious place. If you’re tired there are plenty of cafes that border the park for your sampling pleasure. Breath we finished another walk.