France, the French and Paris are known for their great debates. Debates are an art form. They are often engaged in with no larger purpose than for debates sake. For many years I survived the debate circuit in France with only a few French words. ‘Camembert’ was my key word if discussion at dinner swerved towards the glorious wonders of cheese. ‘Rouge’ was my word if the debate was wine and my favorite expression to keep a debate going was ‘n’importe quoi’. This phrase will ignite a dying debate or to my dismay make enemies if used improperly or introduced with unwise timing.
A great undying debate in Paris is right or left. The right and left debate ranges from your position in politics to what side of the river Seine you prefer to spend your time on. This walk concentrates on the Rive Gauche. Just so you know I am more of a Rive Droite man than Gauche but I do occasionally delve into the joys of crossing the river. When I do cross the river I like small streets, the endless choice of cafes, people watching and of course the history. I am a history freak, what can I say?
We’re starting again on the Pont des Arts I just can’t get enough of this bridge. After a photo of the Academie Francais we’ll step off the bridge and go right toward the Rue Bonaparte. I’m sure this road has historical significance but I can’t muster the slightest interesting reference. Take a left up Rue Bonaparte and get comfortable with the idea of making lots of stops at cafes and possibly carrying around a gluttonous number of macarons to ease the visit.
On the right is the prestigious Ecole National des Beaux Arts, the bastion of French art knowledge. Some say the last time the place was relevant was early last century but one thing is for sure. The giant spray painted orange cat at the entrance is super cute. Keep your eyes open for that cat’s brothers and sisters that do occasionaly appear on several buildings around the city.
At the corner of Rue Jacob and Bonaparte is a must stop patissierie. La Duree is a highly recommended creator of fabulous macaron. Step into the store and marvel at the flavors and colors of these little French delights. Fight the urge to take a picture of the turn of the century interior unless you like being publicly scolded. Order a couple to have with tea in salon or have them pack you a couple of dozen for the rest of the walk. I have taken daylong walks with only macaron to eat, sinful yes, amazing as well though.
Throw your pillowcase of macarons over your shoulder and take a right towards the opening further up the road. The church on the cobble stone plaza is St Germain, the café just behind you is les Deux Magots. I realize we just stopped for tea but it is again time to have a drink. This classic Bistrot and Cafe is endlessly referenced in guidebooks for its artistic and literary visitors and regulars. One story that is not documented is my drink and philosophical exchange with Scott Nomaday, America’s acclaimed Native American writer. Ok, he exchanged more than I did and I drank more than he did but I did have a memorable meeting and drink with an important writer. Sorry, I just had to slide in that story.
Eat a macaron, pay the bill, enjoy one last look at the centuries old church and start walking on Rue Bonaparte again. Cross Boulevard St Germain, you are excused and its totally understood if you get lost in this area to do a little shopping. I’m not a dictator I’ll wait for you on this bench eating macarons.
Try your best to meander in the direction of St Sulpice. This church, recently made famous by Dan Brown’s, Da Vinci Code thriller, held a special place in my heart before the publication of the book and then the movie. It’s true the original meridian line lies at the heart of the chapel but it’s the fountains out front that I love. For some reason this is one of my favorite fountains of Paris. For someone that usually finds words easily that fountain always leaves me mouth wide open and drooling.
Across from the plaza is a large terrace where I saw the world’s most beautiful girl. I didn’t talk to her, I glanced at her as I passed one day but her face and the chair she occupied is in ingrained in my memory. It’s there where I really started wondering if love at first sight really exists or is possible. Just to the right of that café is a small village within a village. Walk the two or three streets slowly. Consider having another tea at Coffee Parisian or a pizza at Il Positano. These two streets are super charming.
At the end of Rue Guisande is the Marche of Mabillon. A walk through the market is worth your time. The array of fruits, flowers and vegetables is interesting so too are the people. This is the heart of the Rive Gauche crowd. Many still act and walk with that aristrocratic air of the past. If they stare at you, open your mouth wide eat a macaron with pride, its not a god forsaken Snickers bar. They would never dare but what do you care? You’re a tourist.
Once you’ve had your fill of Marche Mabillion head toward the pedestrian area of Rue de Buci. This little street is jam packed with the freshness and fervor of the Paris of movies. The Bar du Marche with its wait staff dresses as train engineers is fun, the flower market is a can’t miss as is Les Etages, a great little café made up several stories in one building. After a drink or three I like to lose myself in the color and gripping photographs of the Taschen Bookstore. Once or twice I’ve been caught spying in the erotic section of the shop but I argue and still do that its art!
There are two little side sites just before and after your stroll down Rue de Buci. Just off to the left past Rue de Echaude is a great little tree lined place. Its one of those pockets of Paris where few people ever wander maybe that’s why its so enchanting. On the right past Rue Mazarine at the corner is a short little cobbled stoned alley. On the alley is a great traditional toy store and one of Paris’ oldest restaurants. For some time I attended almost weekly meetings in the room where Benjamin Franklin plotted democracy in America.
The walk up Rue Saint Andre des Arts is the closest I will bring you the famed Latin Quarter. I guess it is an area that should be explored at least once. I’ve done my time there and I have nothing really to say. There are possibly those of you that have different opinions but hey we’re on my walk. Create your own walking guides if you want one with the Quartier Latin.
We’ll cross the bridge at Place St Michel. This favorite meeting point for anarchists, revolutionaries, bums and students seems to never change. There is a always a great collection of drunken dogs protecting their owners. Ponder the fountain a moment and then cross the bridge to Quai des Offevres.
The candy colored St Chappelle is behind the walls in front as is the central prison. This area made serious national new not longer because a famed prison escape artist was held here for a short time before he, want to have a guess, escaped. I watched the French police shut down the area Inspector Cluseau style as if he were smoking joints on the bridge. The man was caught a few weeks later in the south of France.
This walk ends at your choice of a cafes. One has a view on the left bank while the other has a view on the hidden plaza of Ile de la Cite. The views are definitely worth the price of the expensive wine but sitting on the place may deliver a more authentic experience. Petanq, the national past time of tossing big balls close to a small ball, is played in the sandy lots of the plaza. Sit with your coffee and watch the crowds cheer the luck and chance of bouncing steel balls. You may wonder who in big cities has time to play such a slow and boring game but waste too much time on it. Parisians have plenty of time for games like this, its part of their savior vivre. Enjoy your drink.